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Romier S

The Retro Gaming bug

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Yeah, that’s a good point. I remember seeing that mod done in some cleanup videos way back when and you just reminded me of it. I’ll try to get it done over the holidays. Thanks, Jeff.

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I should mention that its important to thoroughly clean the carts pins with 70-90% rubbing alcohol after applying and using the Brasso cleaner. The danger there is that Brasso is absolutely corrosive and if you just let it sit on the pins, over time it can damage the cart. The best method is apply a small dab of Brasso and spread it across both side of the pins. Using a lint free towel, rub away any dirt/residue until the pins are clean. Then using a Q-tip, apply the alcohol liberally and make sure to rub away any remnants of the Brasso. Let it dry and put the carts back together. I've had great success using this method.

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I want more....(this is an illness now lol). I got a $100 gift certificate as an award at work. You all know where that was going. This is about $65 of that. The other $35 went towards a few PSN/XBL sales items.

 

AC57D660-BF1A-4500-A87D-D33A5DD35047.jpeg

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You know, I was never a Sega guy, but I do like the way they did the clamshell cases for Genesis games.  They seem to have held up much better than SNES boxes. 

 

Is that a pre or post recall copy of SA?  Wonder if there's a price difference in the collector's market? 

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It’s V1 prior to the recall. Neither version is highly sought after by collectors enough to drive up the price. Even the hot coffee version had about 15 million copies printed.:)

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Busy game buying week! I got some great deals at a new shop that just opened up near my house. Little ma and pa place that felt like a flea market but I managed to get pristine copies of Donkey Koung Country 2 and 3 for $25 and $31 respectively. Good prices for them, I thought. The rest are odds and ends I ran across for a variety of prices ranging in $5-$15. I picked up AVP since it got added to BC recently and didn’t don’t realize that I don’t own a copy.

 

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Fun story. The other shop I frequent had Aladdin on the SNES for $14 bucks. I brought it up with the rest of my purchases and took a closer look at it and was surprised at how good the condition of it was. It felt off. So I turned it around looking for the stamp on the caution label that official games all have. No stamp. I compared  the label to the other SNES games and it had no gloss finish. It screamed reproduction.

 

The manager didn’t believe me but they did have Gamebit screwdrivers sitting around so we opened the game up. Lo and behold, no proper Ninendo logo, no serial numbers. The EPROM had “Aladdin” etched into it with “Majesco” etched below it. Err...Capcom published Aladdin on SNES.:)

 

The manager was slightly pissed he had gotten hoodwinked. I always check for the in-pressed stamp on the back caution label right off the bat for a reason. You’ll usually see two numbers stamped there. All SNES games have it and vast majorities of reproductions don’t.

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2 minutes ago, Romier S said:

The manager was slightly pissed he had gotten hoodwinked. I always check for the in-pressed stamp on the back caution label right off the bat for a reason. You’ll usually see two numbers stamped there. All SNES games have it and vast majorities of reproductions don’t.

 

I totally remember those back label impressions from years ago, but didn't know that was an indicator of authenticity.👍

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1 minute ago, Starhawk said:

 

I totally remember those back label impressions from years ago, but didn't know that was an indicator of authenticity.👍

 

It’s one of, yeah. To be 100% you have to open it up to check the board but it’s a pretty good chance that if you see those numbers on the back label, you’re probably good. Label quality is always tell tale as well.  Most reproductions do a pretty good job using high res images but the printing is either slightly off or they don’t add any protective lamination that adds that gloss finish to the labels. Between those two things, you can spot fake carts well enough without having to open them.

 

I have to say, that Aladdin one was pretty good quality work. I told the manager if he doesn’t get his money back, I’ll throw him 3-5 bucks for it just to have it. I mean it plays the same. I’m just not paying authentic game prices for it.

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1 hour ago, Romier S said:

 

It’s one of, yeah. To be 100% you have to open it up to check the board but it’s a pretty good chance that if you see those numbers on the back label, you’re probably good. Label quality is always tell tale as well.  Most reproductions do a pretty good job using high res images but the printing is either slightly off or they don’t add any protective lamination that adds that gloss finish to the labels. Between those two things, you can spot fake carts well enough without having to open them.

 

I have to say, that Aladdin one was pretty good quality work. I told the manager if he doesn’t get his money back, I’ll throw him 3-5 bucks for it just to have it. I mean it plays the same. I’m just not paying authentic game prices for it.

 

Hahah!  My stupid knowledge comes in handy, I remember these.  They were not repros/bootlegs, they were official re-prints!

 

https://lykos.net/majesco.html

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I was just about to post this. I recently watched a video about spotting fakes, and they mentioned this exact thing.

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Another interesting note I remember from my collecting days, the manuals were often in black and white vs. the originals being in color, besides the mentioned "MADE IN MEXICO" stamps.

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41 minutes ago, Romier S said:

Insanity. Drooling over here man.

 

I love Austin/Xavier, too. He’s a total gaming nerd.

 

Yeah he and AJ are huge gamers. AJ does a show Retro styles where he goes to different game stores. Recently they did a two parter together.

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The local Wal-Mart has the entire 1up Arcade line for $199 ea ($299 reg), so if you've been in the market for one maybe check your local Wally World.

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More pickups from my travels in Utah and Ohio! The DS games are Contra 4 and Metal Slug 7 and the GBA titles are Metroid Zero Mission and F-Zero.

 

2306DA92-2189-477A-8719-915FF6233717.jpeg

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So I just put together another mame-ish project for retro stuff for the office.  A friend of mine had a spare raspberry pi and some arcade parts, and we talked about turning them into a retro box for work.  I had some spare parts left over from my original MAME build, some spare parts from a former TV stand, and a table saw.  Ended up with this:

 

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The guts of this thing are a Pi3 B with a 32GB SD card, and running retropie.  First stab at trying to configure retropie, and if all you're looking to do is console stuff, it's dead easy.  Pretty much drop in ROMs over SMB, reboot, and go.  Arcade stuff though...that's a little trickier, since ROM sets need to match pretty exactly (much moreso than I've found on my PC based MAME), so I've only got maybe 20 select arcade titles working well. 

 

The main problems I ran into were really because of cheap parts.  We bought some of these (https://www.amazon.ca/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK) which seemed convenient, since they also came with plug and go wires, so no making your own harness, and no soldering, which makes things quick.  The challenge first challenge was that one of the inputs on one of the boards was dead.  This was easily rectified by making button 11 the left switch on joystick 2.  Then I had a strange issue with MAME where whenever I exited a game, player 2's controls were reversed.  As it turns out, with these boards, you need to wire P1 and P2 EXACTLY the same (even though emulation station remaps the controls for you per joystick), so once I did that (including the button 11 hack) everything worked.  If I had it to do over again, I'd probably just use an ipac, but I suppose you can't argue with the price for what you get. 

 

The other thing that took a little research was control remapping.  I did 6 buttons as A B X Y L R, which is fine, but then in NES games for example, the first two buttons were A B (and not B A), which just wouldn't do.  The trick is to edit the retroarch config (easiest way to access is select + X), and select controls.  The realization here is to remap for the core on the AUTO settings (not the A, B etc ones), then save the core config, and then you're up and running.  Also, doing this OUTSIDE of the MAME interface seemed to work much better. 

 

Overall verdict is that it's a neat toy, and people in the office seem happy with it, but I'd still like to get more arcade stuff on there.   I kind of want to try getting some other, newer, consoles on there just to see what that little board can really get up to.  I also did next to nothing to customize the UI, but it seems functional out of the box.  Same with the box itself-it's kind of the "developer UI" of arcade construction-it's functional, but someone else can make it look pretty. 

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The DF video is fairly surface level. I’d recommend the My Life in Gaming episode which does a nice deep dive on the options available.

 

 

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