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The Retro Gaming bug


Romier S
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New PlayStation Optimal Disc Emulator, XStation going up soon for pre-order! The PSIO has been around for awhile but the compatibility sucks and the dude behind it seemingly doesn’t care to release speedy updates. This thing is near 100% compatible. I plan to buy it along with the PS1Digital when it goes on sales soon and have both mods done.

 

https://castlemaniagames.com/products/xstation

 

Compatibility: 
 
The XStation can be installed in SCPH-100x, SCPH-5xxx and some SCPH-700x series consoles. Specifically, motherboard models that are supported are: - PU-7 - PU-8 - PU-18 
 
  • Early SCPH-700x models come with either a PU-18 or PU-20 motherboard. Please check before purchasing. PU-20 is NOT supported. 
  • Net Yaroze and other special models are potentially compatible but have not been tested.
 
Launch Features 
 
  • 100% compatibility with the PlayStation 1 library. 
  • Full Redump drag and drop support 
  • Multi-disc support and easy swapping 
  • Return to the Loader by holding the reset button for 1 second 
  • PS1Digital Compatibility and IGR support through PS1Digital’s OSD menu
  • microSD cards of any size are supported 
  • ExFAT and FAT32 support 
  • Simple drag and drop card setup 
  • Supports .iso, ccd/img, cue/bin (single and multiple) 
  • Integrated PSNee, for automatic region-free operation 
  • Automatic 50/60Hz switching 
  • Loading times are similar to an original drive in good condition. You may notice slightly faster loading times due to reduced seek times while loading 
  • Easy firmware updates by simply dragging and dropping an update file to your microSD card. 
  • No registration necessary for updates, ability to revert to a previous firmware.

Upcoming Features

  • Over-the-air updates with the use of the integrated Wi-Fi module 
  • Selective dither enable/disable per game on-the-fly 
  • Further use of the wireless capabilities possible 
  • Refreshed Loader GUI (planned to be overhauled)
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So guy in my area has a 36in FV310 available for free. He needs to have it picked up today since he's moving. 

 

Man, I thought about it but its freaking 230 pounds and I've been super happy with my JVC D Series. I think I'm going to skip it for now and see if a 27inch eventually appears out there.

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14 minutes ago, Starhawk said:

Isn't this the 4th CRT you've bought in the last year or so? Where can you go from this in your CRT career? 😄

 

Also that drive for $50 was totally worth it. 

 

4?

 

72D7F67B-C8A8-46D2-BFCD-BE40FF223C2A.gif

 

I had junk haulers literally take away 4 sets this afternoon from my house in addition to a bunch of stuff in my garage that needed cleaning out. They hauled:

 

- A 36’ FS100 Sony Trinitron (240lb’s!)

- A 27in FS300 Sony Trinitron

- A 32in HD Trinitron (can’t remember the model number)

- A 20in 20AF47 Toshiba 

 

That leaves me with:


- The 37’ JVC D504 D Series 

- The new 32’ FV310 Sony Trinitron

- The 20in FS100 Sony Trinitron 

- The Sony 20M4U PVM

- The Sony 14G5U BVM

- The Sony 14L5 Mulitformat (480p, 720p, 1080i) PVM

 

Im officially done on the consumer grade side of things. I now own the two most sought after models on that front. I still have a few PVM/BVM holy grails I want.

 

 

 

 

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On 8/4/2020 at 9:42 PM, Romier S said:

New PlayStation Optimal Disc Emulator, XStation going up soon for pre-order! The PSIO has been around for awhile but the compatibility sucks and the dude behind it seemingly doesn’t care to release speedy updates. This thing is near 100% compatible. I plan to buy it along with the PS1Digital when it goes on sales soon and have both mods done.

 

https://castlemaniagames.com/products/xstation

 

Compatibility: 
 
The XStation can be installed in SCPH-100x, SCPH-5xxx and some SCPH-700x series consoles. Specifically, motherboard models that are supported are: - PU-7 - PU-8 - PU-18 
 
  • Early SCPH-700x models come with either a PU-18 or PU-20 motherboard. Please check before purchasing. PU-20 is NOT supported. 
  • Net Yaroze and other special models are potentially compatible but have not been tested.
 
Launch Features 
 
  • 100% compatibility with the PlayStation 1 library. 
  • Full Redump drag and drop support 
  • Multi-disc support and easy swapping 
  • Return to the Loader by holding the reset button for 1 second 
  • PS1Digital Compatibility and IGR support through PS1Digital’s OSD menu
  • microSD cards of any size are supported 
  • ExFAT and FAT32 support 
  • Simple drag and drop card setup 
  • Supports .iso, ccd/img, cue/bin (single and multiple) 
  • Integrated PSNee, for automatic region-free operation 
  • Automatic 50/60Hz switching 
  • Loading times are similar to an original drive in good condition. You may notice slightly faster loading times due to reduced seek times while loading 
  • Easy firmware updates by simply dragging and dropping an update file to your microSD card. 
  • No registration necessary for updates, ability to revert to a previous firmware.

Upcoming Features

  • Over-the-air updates with the use of the integrated Wi-Fi module 
  • Selective dither enable/disable per game on-the-fly 
  • Further use of the wireless capabilities possible 
  • Refreshed Loader GUI (planned to be overhauled)


How easy is something like that to install? The laser in my PS1 began to go funny in the late 90s.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

So, I’ve been working on redoing the Retro setup. Primarily the CRT side of the equation. Though, I needed a better way to manage my video chain. So with that, enter the Crosspoint 8x8 commercial grade matrix switcher. This device allows me to bring in 8 inputs and tie those to any number of 8 outputs. The setup is now 100% component cable based as I’ve dumped all SCART connectivity outside of some select consoles in the “Digital” setup. I have one of the outputs feeding my OSSC on the digital side. Here’s the result (with a caveat I’ll get into in a second):

 

 

With the Crosspoint, I can turn off any monitor at any time. I can also decouple the audio if I choose so I can have all audio routed to the stand alone speakers and shut it off everywhere else if I so choose without affecting the video. It’s an extremely useful device and it costs me a whopping $35 bucks. It’s all BNC connection based so I did spend a bit on BNC to RCA adapters and audio adapters for the ins and outs. Probably another $50 total.
 

The one issue though is with the 20M4U in the center of the two big CRT’s. When in that position, a bit of a purity issue develops. It’s a mild discoloration at the bottom right of the screen that has a yellow/pink tint. It’s noticeable enough to bug the shit out of me (you can kind of see it in the video). After doing some research, I found that this is a common issue on bigger PVM/BVM’s. The direction the monitor is facing can open it up to being affected by the Earths natural magnetic field! No, there is nothing around it causing the issue. I took the monitor out and moved it to a different room and it does the same when facing the same direction. Degaussing doesn’t fix it either.
 

If I reorient the monitor to its original position where it has sat for the last 8 months, it completely disappears. Some of the higher end Sony BVM’s had service menu settings to set the orientation to remagnetize the screen depending on which way it was facing. This one does not and the only way to fix it is to reseat the yoke and adjust the rings. No thank you.:) So in the end, I changed the setup a bit and ended up with a config that may actually work better. I can squeeze the two big sets closer together and have a more direct view and I can swivel the chair around and get a direct view of the PVM’s easily as well:

 

14F06CF2-883F-4831-B771-FB2EFC01CFF5.jpeg

 

31BF8F0E-3646-4AF5-88A5-0F683500F878.jpeg

 

So yeah, I’m pretty pleased. I have some more space for expansion as well if I choose to add additional systems. I’ll be honest though, a vast majority of my retro time is spent on CRT’s anymore. I may think about ditching the upscalers and concentrating on HDMI mods for my digital retro needs like the PS1 Digital and Analogue devices.

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Why so cheap? Well, it didn’t start out looking like that. The right trigger didn’t work, the right analog stick was gummy and sluggish movement wise and the audio was scratchy and garbled. I cracked the thing open and yeah, someone spilled a soda right on top of this thing....

 

E3B93A99-919A-4D55-838C-3F9F77E90FFE.jpeg
 

8B48CAF4-6484-4874-9F76-E96036F3E041.jpeg

 

4A1B5302-6DEF-4871-82D7-87A6A7B5AB44.jpeg

 

8CECF807-8DF4-4714-A5A7-662C85CDC346.jpeg

 

After a complete tear down and three hours of cleaning the speakers, analog assembly and reconnecting the ribbon for the right trigger, I have a fully functional and completely working Vita 2000 in white.

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I feel like I need to learn how to solder (I did it a bit in high school, but nothing since then). 
 

I recently picked up a 360 S with a Kinect and a random assortment of games, and a bunch games from EB Games that they are offloading for $2 each. Nothing to write home about though. 

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I spent most of my day with a couple of old systems open on my desk. 
 

I’ve been trying to fix my old NES for awhile and opened it up a few months ago to try and bend the pins on the 72 pin connector with no success. I also tried cleaning it a little more/better, but have discovered that a few of the pins are quite corroded. I also disabled the security chip, as my system would always blink. 
 

I tried it out partially assembled and Super Spike VBall booted up immediately, so I thought things were good. I tried Punch Out and it didn’t work, but VBall still did, so I thought it just might need cleaning. I put it all back together and VBall wasn’t working.... and then it was again. Played it for a few minutes, tried a few other games, none of which were working.... and now nothing is working. 
 

I guess next is to try a new pin connector. I know Blinking Light Win is probably the best option, but the cost with shipping to Canada is more than a whole system.

 

I might see how one of the cheaper ones on Amazon does before any further investment. 

 

Its also possible this system is toast, which would be unfortunate. 
 

I also opened up my XBox and took out the capacitor for the clock that tends to leak. It looked like it had started to leak a tiny little bit on the bottom, so I’m glad to get that out of there. I got it hooked up and it seems to be working fine still. 
 

It was weird holding the S controller again (Xbox really likes the letter S eh?). I loaded up one of my favourite games (MotoGP 2), and was comforted seeing all my saved progress. I also completely forgot that I had custom soundtracks set up for that game and was surprised when the music started playing. 
 

I don’t think I’ve used that feature since the original Xbox. 

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  • 1 month later...

The latest CRT addition is this little 20FV300 I picked up today for $5. It’s one of the only 20in consumer sets from Sony that has both component and S-Video. I had to take it apart cause it was filthy and needed cleaning but it’s in pretty good shape post-cleansing. Pretty solid geometry on initial turn on, too.
 

3ADA8C21-FE60-4F20-831C-69397F0548C8.jpeg

 

54DDD614-9FC6-4127-9CCA-FFC3224E476B.jpeg
 

3E450F89-CF2E-497D-8957-004687C8FEB3.jpeg

 

D040B10F-F445-401B-ABC0-F471E0D83E61.jpeg

 

D7D5CF61-C360-447E-AFDD-174E06A5D0C6.jpeg

 

00E9B5ED-62F7-47FF-90F7-6104E1FC5BFC.jpeg

 

FB1C4910-D83E-46C7-8244-8D9CC2F369C0.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Check your PSPs, guys. The batteries are breaking down + swelling up, potentially exploding. 

 

https://gamerant.com/psp-batteries-exploding/#:~:text=PSP owners should go and,cases%2C bursting or leaking batteries.&text=The PSP was initially released,likely to experience the problem.

 

Both my Sony battery & my third party pandora one are all swollen up. 

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