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The cottage entertainment room.


Brandon H

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It’s been a great space but I would definitely do just a few things differently:

 

— I would have had the builder place plywood behind the TV mount area to make current and future mounts easier. The wall is studded, but there’s also an expanse of cinder-block right behind the drywall behind my TV. Mounting a TV into cinder block is not fun, nor is it something you want to do often. I’d like that flexibility in the wall.

— Biggest regret is not channeling into the concrete slab to run power outlets into the floor for the chairs. Those recliners are manual. Believe it or not, manual recliners are actually more expensive in most cases these days, and I’ve already had to have the mechanism repaired on a couple of them several times. I should have just bit the bullet and had them channel out the concrete and run power for motorized seats.

— I probably should have gone ahead and wired and planned for a projector mount and screen of some kind when it was all opened up. It’s not really an ideal space for a projector, but you could just squeeze a 100” screen in if you were determined, and the center beam would have allowed for wiring for a projector. I was not that determined at the time, and honestly, I can’t say that I’ve missed it much sitting nine feet from an 85-inch screen, but in retrospect — maybe I should not have passed on the opportunity to have it there if I ever wanted.

— I would have made the contractor manage cabling better. The photos don’t show it, but right now, the in-wall network cables and the speaker cables come out of conduit directly into the room. They are neatly loomed and groomed, but it still makes for a mess behind the rack, and I have to be careful in wiring and moving the rack around to make sure that I don’t strain connectors. I should have made him terminate it all into junction boxes and wall plates.

— I like the look of my rack cabinet, but honestly, it might have been easier just to place a single tall rack to the right of the TV rather than racking everything into the cabinet. It’s not a big deal given that I don’t change out equipment that often, but wiring across two racks and moving behind that thing is a bit of a pain (often quite literally — it gets uncomfortable back there during long wiring jobs.)

— I would have wired in wi-fi access points. You would think wi-fi would not be a problem in an open two-room cottage, and it’s not, except for getting signal to the exterior security cameras. The signal does not like trying to pass through a few inches of spray-foam insulation, cinder block, and then additional exterior insulation and cement board. Hardwired access points likely would work better.

 

 

 

I’ll try to post some photos before and after the renovation so you can see what we had to work with. It was a fun project.

 

 

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7 minutes ago, Brandon H said:

I probably should have gone ahead and wired and planned for a projector mount and screen of some kind when it was all opened up. It’s not really an ideal space for a projector, but you could just squeeze a 100” screen in if you were determined, and the center beam would have allowed for wiring for a projector.

 

I was looking at the pics (stunning room!) and thinking how nice a projector would be in that space. Why "only" 100"? If that TV is 85" I would think you could go 120" - just looking at the space between the speakers. Is it because of the vaulted ceiling, which would drop a wider screen down too far? Personally, I like screens to be more eye level (specifically, the lower 1/4 of the screen at eye level) than overhead, but if you have two rows of seating, I can see that potentially being an issue.

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8 minutes ago, rustyjaw said:

 

I was looking at the pics (stunning room!) and thinking how nice a projector would be in that space. Why "only" 100"? If that TV is 85" I would think you could go 120" - just looking at the space between the speakers. Is it because of the vaulted ceiling, which would drop a wider screen down too far? Personally, I like screens to be more eye level (specifically, the lower 1/4 of the screen at eye level) than overhead, but if you have two rows of seating, I can see that potentially being an issue.

 

I think you'd be right there, unfortunately he has that big ass window right next to the left side of the tv.  He'd have to offset the center of a screen much larger than that 100".

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7 minutes ago, Brandon H said:

Yep, the window is the issue. We could have taken it out, but at some expense. There are other windows too, so light control would also be another (but manageable) issue.

 

So I guess you are talking about a fixed screen then, not some kind of retractable? (I was assuming retractable)

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Mini-split works great. Super-quiet and energy-efficient. There’s another, smaller unit in the office. The cottage is well-insulated and pretty airtight so it doesn’t take much to heat or cool it. Our winters are mild but summers, that’s another story. We use a small tankless water heater to provide hot water to the cottage, which works fine since we don’t need that much.

 

Ideally, I would have put some form of retractable screen in that would drop down in front of the fixed TV — in which case you are right — it could just drop down over the window with appropriate light control. I never thought through it that well.

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Just now, Brandon H said:

Ideally, I would have put some form of retractable screen in that would drop down in front of the fixed TV — in which case you are right — it could just drop down over the window with appropriate light control. I never thought through it that well.


Perhaps something for your 2.0 version. But leave that for later, enjoy the fruits of your labor now.

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