MrJames Posted April 9, 2007 Report Share Posted April 9, 2007 Stolen from AVS. Credit goes to Ohgami... I was reading up on the newly announced 575 and 505 by Onkyo Usa and decided to see if any others were availible/comeing soon. My results exceeded my expectations on what's going to be out this year. I saw listing on Amazon with MSRPs (As opposed to the discounted street prices they'll post sometimes (ex. the HD-A20 was listed as $599 MSRP with no discount since just after CES)) I happened across a german site that had compiled a full list of the 2007 series with detailed features. It looks like ALL the 2007 Line models are HDMI 1.3a!! (The 505 and 575 which are up on the Onkyo USA website already are Video Pass through only) 605 and up all have Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio Decode!!!! The top of the line Being the NR905>SR875>SR805>SR705>SR605>SR575>SR505. There's just a bit of info I don't have but I'm sure that will filter out soon. http://www.maxstyle.eu/onkyo_integra_news_flash_neuheiten.htm MSRPs according to Amazon with Est. ship date of Mid May. Info from German site confirmed as same on Onkyo-Usa.com about 505 and 575: TX-SR505 MSRP $299 http://www.onkyousa.com/model.cfm?m=TX-SR505&p=f&class=Receiver *HDMI 1.3 Video Pass Through (2 in 1 out) *HDMI Deep Color Capable (36bit) *Component Video HDTV-Capable (50 MHZ) Video Switching (3 in 1 out) *WRAT/ Optimum Gain Volume Circuitry/ Non-Scaling Configuration/ A-Form Listening Mode Memory/ RI *Audyssey 2EQ Room Acoustics Correction *7.1 Multichannel Inputs for PCM Delivery of Hi-Def Audio Sources *DOLBY Decoder - PLIIx' date=' DD, DD-EX *DTS Decoder - DTS, ES, NEO6, 96/24 *S-Video (3 in 1 out) *Digital Audio IN (OPT/COAX) 2/2 *Composite (4 in 1 out) *Power 75W/Ch [b']TX-SR575 MSRP $399[/b] http://www.onkyousa.com/model.cfm?m=TX-SR575&p=f&class=Receiver *HDMI 1.3 Video Pass Through (2 in 1 out) *HDMI Deep Color Capable (36bit) *Component Video Upconversion and HDTV-Capable (50 MHZ) Video Switching (3 in 1 out) *WRAT/ Optimum Gain Volume Circuitry/ Non-Scaling Configuration/ A-Form Listening Mode Memory/ RI *Audyssey 2EQ Room Acoustics Correction With Microphone *7.1 Multichannel Inputs for PCM Delivery of Hi-Def Audio Sources *DOLBY Decoder - PLIIx, DD, DD-EX *DTS Decoder - DTS, ES, NEO6, 96/24 *S-Video (3 in 1 out) *Digital Audio IN (OPT/COAX) 2/2 *Composite (4 in 1 out) *Power 80W/Ch TX-SR605 MSRP $499 *Full A/V Processing via HDMI 1.3a with Upconversion (2 in 1 out) *HDMI Deep Color Capable (36bit) *Component Video Upconversion and HDTV-Capable (50 MHZ) Video Switching (? in 1 out) *WRAT/ Optimum Gain Volume Circuitry/ Non-Scaling Configuration/ A-Form Listening Mode Memory/ RI *Faroudja DCDi *Audyssey 2EQ Room Acoustics Correction *7.1 Multichannel Inputs for PCM Delivery of Hi-Def Audio Sources *DOLBY Decoder - PLIIx, DD, DD-EX, TrueHD *DTS Decoder - DTS, ES, NEO6, 96/24, HD Master Audio *S-Video (? in 1 out) *Digital Audio IN (OPT/COAX) ?/? *Composite (? in 1 out) *Power 90W/Ch *Powered Zone 2 and Zone 2 Line-Out *Bi-Amp Capable TX-SR705 MSRP $799 *Full A/V Processing via HDMI 1.3a with Upconversion (3 in 1 out) *HDMI Deep Color Capable (36bit) *Component Video Upconversion and HDTV-Capable (50 MHZ) Video Switching (? in 1 out) *WRAT/ Optimum Gain Volume Circuitry/ Non-Scaling Configuration/ A-Form Listening Mode Memory/ RI *Faroudja DCDi *Audyssey MultEQ XT Room Acoustics Correction *7.1 Multichannel Inputs for PCM Delivery of Hi-Def Audio Sources *DOLBY Decoder - PLIIx, DD, DD-EX, TrueHD *DTS Decoder - DTS, ES, NEO6, 96/24, HD Master Audio *THX Select2 Certified *S-Video (? in 1 out) *Digital Audio IN (OPT/COAX) ?/? *Composite (? in 1 out) *Power ??0W/Ch *Powered Zone 2 and Zone 2 Line-Out *Bi-Amp Capable TX-SR805 MSRP $999 *Full A/V Processing via HDMI 1.3a with Upconversion (3 in 1 out) *HDMI Deep Color Capable (36bit) *Component Video Upconversion and HDTV-Capable (100 MHZ) Video Switching (3 in 1 out) *WRAT/ Optimum Gain Volume Circuitry/ Non-Scaling Configuration/ A-Form Listening Mode Memory/ RI *Faroudja DCDi *Audyssey MultEQ XT Room Acoustics Correction *7.1 Multichannel Inputs for PCM Delivery of Hi-Def Audio Sources *DOLBY Decoder - PLIIx, DD, DD-EX, TrueHD *DTS Decoder - DTS, ES, NEO6, 96/24, HD Master Audio *THX Ultra2 Certified *Burr-Brown 192/24-bit DAC on all Channels (TI Architecture (PCM1796)) *S-Video (6 in 1 out) *Digital Audio IN (OPT/COAX) 2/3 *Composite (6 in 1 out) *Power ??0W/Ch *Powered Zone 2 with Balance Volume and tone control *Powered Zone 3 *Bi-Amp Capable TX-SR875 MSRP $1599 *Full A/V Processing via HDMI 1.3a with Upconversion (4 in 1 out) *HDMI Deep Color Capable (36bit) *Component Video Upconversion and HDTV-Capable (100 MHZ) Video Switching (? in 1 out) *WRAT/ Optimum Gain Volume Circuitry/ Non-Scaling Configuration/ A-Form Listening Mode Memory/ RI *HQV Reon-VX Video Processing and NSV Precision Video *Audyssey MultEQ XT Room Acoustics Correction *7.1 Multichannel Inputs for PCM Delivery of Hi-Def Audio Sources *DOLBY Decoder - PLIIx, DD, DD-EX, TrueHD *DTS Decoder - DTS, ES, NEO6, 96/24, HD Master Audio *THX Ultra2 Certified *S-Video (? in 1 out) *Digital Audio IN (OPT/COAX) ?/? *Composite (? in 1 out) *Burr-Brown 192/24-bit DAC on all Channels (TI Architecture (PCM1796)) *Power ??0W/Ch *Powered Zone 2 with Video Balance Volume and tone control *Powered Zone 3 *Bi-Amp & BTL Capable *Dual Push-Pull Amp with 3 stage inverted TX-NR905 MSRP $1999 *Full A/V Processing via HDMI 1.3a with Upconversion (4 in 2 out) *HDMI Deep Color Capable (36bit) *Component Video Upconversion and HDTV-Capable (100 MHZ) Video Switching (? in 1 out) *WRAT/ Optimum Gain Volume Circuitry/ Non-Scaling Configuration/ A-Form Listening Mode Memory/ RI *HQV Reon-VX Video Processing and NSV Precision Video *Audyssey MultEQ XT Room Acoustics Correction *7.1 Multichannel Inputs for PCM Delivery of Hi-Def Audio Sources *DOLBY Decoder - PLIIx, DD, DD-EX, TrueHD *DTS Decoder - DTS, ES, NEO6, 96/24, HD Master Audio *THX Ultra2 Certified *S-Video (? in 1 out) *Digital Audio IN (OPT/COAX) ?/? *Composite (? in 1 out) *Burr-Brown 192/24-bit DAC on all Channels (TI Architecture (PCM1796)) *Power ??0W/Ch *Powered Zone 2 with Video Balance Volume and tone control *Powered Zone 3 *Bi-Amp & BTL Capable *Dual Push-Pull Amp with 3 stage inverted *Toroidal Transformer and Seperate Transformers for processing. *Networking Capabilities via Onkyo's e-Control System for Internet Radio and WMA Amazon listings for all the new stuff: http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&search-alias=electronics&field-keywords=onkyo%20surround%20sound&page=1 505, 605, 705, and 805 are listed in that link. J&R Listings for all the new stuff: 505: Black Silver 575: Black Silver 605: Black Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secretvampire Posted April 10, 2007 Report Share Posted April 10, 2007 Can someone answer a question for me somewhat on-topic? I currently have an older Onkyo (DS898) which is great, but I'm feeling the itch for the new audio codecs. I have never dealt with separates before and would like to make the leap: Would it make sense for me to get a mid-budget model like the TX-SR605 for the HDMI 1.3a and new codecs and just use it for a pre-pro paired with a decent amp? (And what are some good amps, I'm looking for bang-for-the-buck, not dropping $2k on an amp. From what I understand, this would be far superior to another all-in-one receiver.) I don't have any interest in using the receiver for anything other than audio. No video switching (all done through my DVDO scaler) and no other advanced features. 2 HDMI should be fine for now (1 for PS3/BD and 1 for...?) and if I ever need more I could get an external switcher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelley Posted April 10, 2007 Report Share Posted April 10, 2007 Are you looking for 5.1 or 7.1? Emotiva sells a nice 5.1 amp for a low cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secretvampire Posted April 10, 2007 Report Share Posted April 10, 2007 Are you looking for 5.1 or 7.1? Emotiva sells a nice 5.1 amp for a low cost. I think 5.1 would be just fine. I've had a 7.1 receiver for what, 4 years now? Never hooked up additional surrounds and don't have room for them now either really. I kinda got the impression that for the most part 6.1 and 7.1 are dead (as in, no specific audio content for them, just matrixed for the most part by the receivers, I don't think the difference is really worth it). That looks like a nice amp, although I know nothing about amps really, and is exactly the kind of price point I would be perfect. I wind up with the new uncompressed codecs and a clean dedicated source of power for $1000. I should still be able to get $300-400 on Ebay for my old receiver...maybe. So part of my question is...will I notice the difference? Is this path the best way to go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenMonkey Posted April 10, 2007 Report Share Posted April 10, 2007 So part of my question is...will I notice the difference? Is this path the best way to go? Conventional audio wisdom says yes, seperates are better. I'm a skeptical audio hobbyist. To me, if you can't pick out the difference in a double blind test, it doesn't matter. And most of this stuff like amps vs receivers falls in that territory. AFAIK no one can reliably tell the difference given a scientific double blind test. And for the most part, stuff like amps and receivers make very little difference as long as you aren't taxing it unduly with power-hungry speakers at high-volume. No one has shown otherwise. If you're in a high-volume/big spaces kind of environment (as in, a real dedicated theater room/large space with a lot of high-volume sound), then you might need something with enough wattage. And of course it has to be reliable. But other than that? Hogwash. Buy a decent receiver, and spend the extra money on speakers or subwoofers or even acoustics or something. Buy high-end amps and receivers only if you have money to burn on what is likely just the placebo effect. Here's a good reference from the objectivist audio world http://www.biline.ca/critic1.htm What about the amplifier? Vastly exaggerated in importance by the audiophile press and high-end audio dealers. In controlled double-blind listening tests, no one has ever (yes, ever!) heard a difference between two amplifiers with high input impedance, low output impedance, flat response, low distortion, and low noise, when operated at precisely matched levels (?0.1 dB) and not clipped. Of course, the larger your room and the less efficient your speakers, the more watts you need to avoid clipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secretvampire Posted April 10, 2007 Report Share Posted April 10, 2007 Sweet Zombie Jebus! These 605's are up for pre-order at JR.com for $400 SHIPPED. That seems like an incredible value. I know what you are saying Dave, but I do worry that these new 605's are rated at 90w/c where as my current receiver is 110w/c (and yes, I realize that both are in reality lower than that). My room is not that big, and I've never had a problem with my current rig with clipping or anything like that. But I still worry this might put me below the threshold. Let me ask you this, Dave (or anyone else too). Do you feel there is a huge leap in quality going to these new uncompressed formats or is it very incremental? If you don't believe the power source matters much, do you believe these new codecs do? I guess one option is to get the 605 and see how it stacks up. Looking at the Emotiva site, they give a 30-day trial with free shipping so I could always return it for the cost of shipping if the difference just wasn't there. Hmmmm.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce B Posted April 10, 2007 Report Share Posted April 10, 2007 Do you feel there is a huge leap in quality going to these new uncompressed formats or is it very incremental? My 2 cents Its night and day. To me the difference with the audio quality from these new formats is greater than the difference in video. If you went to a friends house and listen to the uncompressed it would pain you to go home and listen to a movie under normal formats. Going back to the separates. I'm have half assed separates. I have a Rotel 1095 amp and am currently using the Denon 2807 as a pre amp. Exile pounded it in my head that it was the way to go and he was correct. I could have paid $2000-$300o for a Denon a/v receiver with supposed 140 WPC when instead I invested a total of $2600($1700 Rotel, $900 Denon) and got a pure solid 200WPC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenMonkey Posted April 10, 2007 Report Share Posted April 10, 2007 Let me ask you this, Dave (or anyone else too). Do you feel there is a huge leap in quality going to these new uncompressed formats or is it very incremental? If you don't believe the power source matters much, do you believe these new codecs do? Hmmm, I'd think the improvement going to the uncompressed audio would be noticeable, unlike the seperates route. People can pick out audio compression to a certain extent - I've seen enough double blind mp3 tests to believe that. I don't think completely uncompressed audio is needed but I think it more likely you can pick out the difference in the sound than you can tell the difference between electronic circuits in different amps. I mean, I can tell a 128kbps mp3 from a CD, even in the crappy Bose system in my car. I'd say my threshold is about 192kbps. But I rip mine at 256kbps high quality anyway, who cares about space, space is cheap I haven't had a chance to listen to the uncompressed stuff yet. No sources. If I get a standalone HD-DVD drive I'd probably make sure to get one with analog outputs so I could use it. Here's a double blind audio compression test that PCworld did: http://pcworld.about.com/news/Oct022001id64123.htm Many graphs, audio compression tests of mp3 type compression formats: http://www.rjamorim.com/test/multiformat128/results.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General Zot Posted April 10, 2007 Report Share Posted April 10, 2007 I moved from receivers to separates a few years back and I could tell a huge difference. But I was moving from a receiver that had ~60wt/ch to a dedicated (and more expensive pre/pro) amp that had 165wt/ch. So what was the improvement due to more power and better electronics and what was due to separates vs. receiver? No idea, but the system does sound way, way better. I would say the big gain in having separates is that amp tends to pump out cleaner (and usually more) power than a receiver combo where it is split. The advantage being that now you can buy whatever pre/pro or receiver you want to provide the latest electronics, your power is always the same regardless of what the company provides. If you aren't driving tower speakers or playing Mozart at reference volume do you need all that umph? Dunno, if you can afford it though it makes a hell of a fun test. I know lots of people online who buy an amp and still buy receivers to get the latest and greatest upgrades. They just route the signal out to their amp and turn off the receiver internal amps. That works too. In the end, I would suggest pairing your power (and/or receiver) needs to your speakers. If you are using value speakers (even good ones) or satellites a receiver is perfect. If you are trying to power 8' tall Magnepans as a pair of mains, you pretty much are going to NEED 200 wt/ch dedicated power minimum to turn those puppies loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris The Rock Posted April 10, 2007 Report Share Posted April 10, 2007 Someday, I'll switch to separates, so that I can upgrade the preamp and keep the same amplifier. I figure power is power - and the featureset of amplifiers won't change over time like what's available on preamps/processors and/or A/V receivers. I say someday, because presently, my Denon 4306 has plenty of power for my speakers and my room - but I have used a lesser-powered receiver and the lack of power was very noticeable. On the subject of uncompressed audio, it's hard to describe how it's better, but it just is. I always thought it didn't get better than a well-produced DD or DTS soundtrack on DVD, but boy was I wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exile Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 Onkyo's are notably underpowered. The 804 from last year only measured 34 wpc which is downright pathetic for a $1,000 receiver. It's even worse as you go down in scale. I'm considering the 805 as it is because it gives me what I want(Audyssey, 4 hdmi in, future codecs, preouts + 100mhz switching). 50mhz switching isn't enough and you'll notice the degradation on your video. I would combine that with the lower cost Emotiva amp. It's 6 channels but I'd use the back speakers to be powered by the receiver and power the main 5 channels with the amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenMonkey Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 In the end, I would suggest pairing your power (and/or receiver) needs to your speakers. If you are using value speakers (even good ones) or satellites a receiver is perfect. If you are trying to power 8' tall Magnepans as a pair of mains, you pretty much are going to NEED 200 wt/ch dedicated power minimum to turn those puppies loose. We can agree on that :tu Uber speakers call for uber power. I still don't agree with exile on the 50hz bandwidth for component video, though, unless you're doing 1080p. As far as I can tell 1080i and 720p are perfect at that bandwidth - there's a reason that few receivers are going any higher than that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exile Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 The reason is cost. At the low price points they have to cut corners. The amp section is one of the biggest ways and the bandwidth on the component switching is another. Looking at pricing wise, the 805 seems like a sweet spot for me. It's MSRP is $999 which means I should be able to buy it for <$700 with a warranty. Combine that with that $450 emotiva and I'm golden.. I think. The THX ultra 2 badging is quite nice. Looking at my connection closet, I need atleast 4 hdmi. 3 for now and 1 for future growth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secretvampire Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 Great insights and impressions, this is invaluable to me. I think I'm about 95% convinced that the 605 + the Emotiva amp would be perfect for my needs. But here is a bit of info about what they would be driving. -2 fronts are JBL S312's, max-rated for 250W and they have a sensitivity of 92db. -Center is the JBL S-Center, max-rated for 150W and a sensitivity of 91db. -2 rears are JBL S38s, max-rated for 175W and a sensitivity of 89db. -Sub is a SVS w/ it's own amp so that is out of the equation for needing power - My room is about 17x17', we sit about 9-10' away from the screen and front speakers So no crazy Mags to drive or anything. My speakers aren't super high-end but they put out a nice neutral sound that I have never had a problem with, they won't be getting upgraded any time soon. So what is this Audyssey business? I notice there is a step up from the 605 to the 705, but what does it do? I'm guessing it's not worth the $300 price difference for me. I don't need the extra HDMI port (if I ever do, I'll buy an external switcher which wouldn't be forever tied to the receiver). I won't be doing any component switching (or ANY video switching) through the receiver, my DVDO scaler takes care of that very nicely and better than any receiver would. I don't give a rat's ass about THX certifications. As a total newb when it comes to amps...why are you suggesting I use the receiver for the rears? Is it possible to bridge the channels and use all that power only for the fronts and center? I thought I could only allocate 125W per channel and in that case, it would make sense to drive them through the amp instead of leaving two channels unused. Please clarify! My other outstanding issue I've been discussing with Joe, my fellow DVDO owner, is I need to find out what's going to happen when I pass video out from my PS3 via HDMI into the DVDO. If it won't output it in component, I'm hosed until I get a TV with HDMI and this whole discussion is kinda a moot point. My buddy is bringing an HDMI cable over in a couple of days to see what happens. One last thing...I realized I do have some experience with "lossless" audio. I had both DVD-A and SACD for a while (just SACD now that my RP91 died a year ago). There was a huge difference in sound on the recordings I had for those formats, I could certainly tell. It was beautiful even on my somewhat modest setup (well...still is, I play the SACD stuff still ). So I guess I would be able to hear these new codecs just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exile Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 Regarding lossless vs SACD etc, lossless is better but if you can easily appreciate the difference between SACD and CD then it should be a no brainer. My speakers are as "sensitive" as yours and they shutdown most low end receivers. It's why I finally settled on a Sony ES product. The De series, the onkyos at the time and the yamahas couldn't handle it. I see Yamaha has addressed their amp issues now. Audyssey is a room EQ. It does make a very noticable difference especially if you don't invest into room treatments and I don't mean curtains. I'm not suggesting you use the amp for your rears but It's what I'm going to do. Their 7 channel amp isn't in my price range and their 5 channel variety would work. This would leave my rears or rear centers as the only unpowered by my amp speakers left. They do make a 7 channel amp assuming you have 7.1 If you have 5.1 then you don't need to do the route I'm going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secretvampire Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 Audyssey is a room EQ. It does make a very noticable difference especially if you don't invest into room treatments and I don't mean curtains.[/qUOTE]Gotcha, but do you happen to know what the difference between the various Audyssey levels is? What is better about the one on the 705 vs. the 605? I certainly don't have an ideal room as far as surfaces go. I see, you didn't catch what I said earlier. I'm only going 5.1, so the amp will be fine for all five channels. Cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenMonkey Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 My other outstanding issue I've been discussing with Joe, my fellow DVDO owner, is I need to find out what's going to happen when I pass video out from my PS3 via HDMI into the DVDO. If it won't output it in component, I'm hosed until I get a TV with HDMI and this whole discussion is kinda a moot point. My buddy is bringing an HDMI cable over in a couple of days to see what happens. . Not going to happen. Guaranteed. Unless you use some sort of grey market device to strip the copy protection, and even then, all you're going to get is a DVI-D signal AFAIK. Can your DVDO transcode DVI to component video? HDMI will only output HDMI, and for that matter the PS3 HDMI uses the handshake/security stuff even for games. Can't you hook up the HDMI connection and the component video connection on the PS3 and output both at once? Most of my HDMI/component video devices output from both ports simultaneously. I don't argue about the merits of compressionless audio as people can actually pick it out in a double blind test. Although the less and less the compression the less people can actually notice it. I think lossless compression is fine as is very low amounts of compression (like 256kbps VBR mp3s) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secretvampire Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 Not going to happen. Guaranteed. Unless you use some sort of grey market device to strip the copy protection, and even then, all you're going to get is a DVI-D signal AFAIK. Can your DVDO transcode DVI to component video?[/qUOTE]The DVDO doesn't have any DVI inputs. HDMI will only output HDMI, and for that matter the PS3 HDMI uses the handshake/security stuff even for games. Okay, that will be a problem. I know the DVDO will pass component from HDMI source for unprotected content, but if the PS3 passes everything as protected then it will not work. Can't you hook up the HDMI connection and the component video connection on the PS3 and output both at once? Most of my HDMI/component video devices output from both ports simultaneously. Somebody smarter than me will have to answer this question. If it output through both, that would solve my problems as I could continue to run the component into my DVDO and just run the HDMI into the receiver for audio. Anybody know? I have no way to currently test this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secretvampire Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 Excellent. I found a forum post through Google that while you cannot output video through both component and HDMI from the PS3, you CAN tell the PS3 that you want to output audio through HDMI and still leave video set to component. I will confirm this tonight when I get home. As I've already pretty much decided to go Blu-Ray only (IMHO Blu-Ray is ultimately going to win this war), I'll be putting my 360 HD-DVD add-on up for sale. If I do decide to jump back into HD-DVD at some point, I'm going to want a standalone player anyway for the HDMI-only codecs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenMonkey Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 Excellent. I found a forum post through Google that while you cannot output video through both component and HDMI from the PS3, you CAN tell the PS3 that you want to output audio through HDMI and still leave video set to component. I will confirm this tonight when I get home. Bingo, there you go. Glad to know this, BTW since I kinda need this feature (output to 2 displays). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secretvampire Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 Bingo, there you go. Glad to know this, BTW since I kinda need this feature (output to 2 displays). I will try to confirm this for you soon. I went ahead and pre-ordered the 605 from JR.com! It won't ship for another month I guess, time to play the waiting game (screw that, let's play Hungry Hungry Hippos!). I'll probably go ahead and order the Emotiva amp right around the time it ships, then I'll have 30 days to play with it and make sure I want to keep it. For whatever reason, based on Ebay, these (my current) older higher-end-of-the-product-line Onkyos still do indeed fetch $300-500 on Ebay, so I'll probably only be out of pocket for the amp. Awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General Zot Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 So does anyone know what are the new pre/pros coming out this year that will pass HDMI 1.3a? Wasn't Denon going to make a line of processors that has the same electronics as the receivers but no internal amps? I love my Outlaw gear, but waiting for them to come out with a pre/pro that supports HDMI could be more than I can take. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EnemaEms Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 Vamp, That is how I am running my PS3. HDMI for audio and component for video. -Dean- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secretvampire Posted April 12, 2007 Report Share Posted April 12, 2007 That is how I am running my PS3. HDMI for audio and component for video. Good to have confirmation from a trusted source, thanks Dean! Crap, now I have to wait a month. Plus waiting for the damn new Macs to get released. Too much waiting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exile Posted April 12, 2007 Report Share Posted April 12, 2007 Latest rumor says that the limit on HDMI distance on the Onkyo receivers output is 15 feet. If you have longer runs you need to buy an outboard repeater :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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