Do all component video switches switch HD?

[reeldeal]

*Sheepish*

I know when A/V receivers first introduced component video switching there was some discussion about them not having the bandwidth to pass a HD signal. I can't imagine this is still a concern?

 

I'm pretty happy with my receiver but it's old and doesn't do video switching above composite

 

It's not a huge deal as I only use it as an audio switcher and run components directly to my tv. But I find myself one component input short. So i was looking at this:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10112&cs_id=1011201&p_id=3027&seq=1&format=2&style=

but wanted to make sure that silly bandwidth thing isn't an issue still?

 

any ideas on if that would be suitable?

 

thanks in advance

[foogledricks]

You're right. When I was first shopping for my HDTV years ago, several reviews of TVs made note that one component connection was HD bandwidth while others were not. For this reason it is possible to have a receiver with low-bandwidth component. However, I seriously doubt that a modern receiver would bother. Low bandwidth component had to be phased out years ago. Your probably safe getting any modern device that does component switching. This is of course just an educated guess.

[exile]

I have the below switcher in use right now. I know it will pass 1080I and 720P and for now I'm not seeing any degredation but that doesn't mean it doesn't exist. On my 720P display, I'm not seeing any.

[reeldeal]

I have the below switcher in use right now. I know it will pass 1080I and 720P and for now I'm not seeing any degredation but that doesn't mean it doesn't exist. On my 720P display, I'm not seeing any.

nice. it kind of got ripped to shit in the reader reviews so I was going to pass. But based on what you said and the price I think I'll give it a whirl...unless I find a cheap receiver I suppose.

[exile]

It's not without its faults. It locked up atleast once on me so far.

[GreenMonkey]

I'll tell you, I've gone through a lot of these.

 

Pscylone PSC01 - $100 MSRP - loses sync with my LCD. Whites are being overbrightened and create out-of-spec signal (I used to experience the same thing with a Samsung HD tuner on my old projector). Probably a design flaw.

 

Joytech 240c - ~$100 MSRP - works great to 480p; 720p and 1080i ghost (especially 720p).

I use this now, but bypass it for my HD devices. I put up with the ghosting on my 37" LCD as it's not really visible on it. I circumvent it for the projector by using HDMI and DVI for my HD sat and DVD player .

 

You're best off with either a mechanical composite video switch (no electronics, just push button).

 

Now, I do recommend the Impact Acoustics 3-play. Weremichael uses one as well. I picked one up when I thought my Joytech 240c was dead (problem turned out to be a dead AC adapter). Flawless 720p/1080i - no ghosting, no video drops, nothing.

 

I got it from buy.com for like $34. It also switches digital or analog audio.

 

http://www.buy.com/prod/cables-to-go-impact-acoustics-3-play-high-performance-component-video/q/loc/101/201752105.html

 

BTW: I'll sell you mine for $30 shipped if you are interested. I was keeping it around as a spare in case my Joytech 240c stopped working again. Or you can grab it for $34 after google checkout discount at buy.com.

 

In any event, I highly recommend the 3-play after going through 2 different component video switches. I continue to use the Joytech simply because I'd have to use 2 3-plays for all my devices (360, PS2, Wii, HD-sat, DVD) and the Joytech has s-video/composite video for my Saturn/SNES/NES which simplifies wiring.

[Josh]

I use the Psychlone with no problems whatsoever, so YMMV.

[GreenMonkey]

I use the Psychlone with no problems whatsoever, so YMMV.

 

Yeah, the Psyclone worked great with my projector with no problems. Didn't play nice with my Olevia LCD though.

 

I kept meaning to pull out the DVE disk and try to calibrate the signal coming through the Pscylone. I'd bet it's probably crushing whites to some extent, or that the signal is much brighter coming through the Pscylone as compared to circumventing it.

 

The problem is it is outputting an out-of-spec signal somehow - too 'bright' (the exact technical explanation for the same behavior with the early Samsung HD tuners made my head hurt). Some displays can handle this, some can't. Makes it kind of a YMMV device. Great design, though, I liked the look and the LCD display was better than the Joytech IMO.